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Utility designsfollowed the square shouldered and short skirted fashions of the war era whilststicking to the strict regulations for minimal cloth usage. Buttons were limitedto three and turn back cuffs were eliminated. Skirts some 19 inches from theground were usual. Right Standard utility suit designed by the Incorporated Society Of London Fashion Designers.

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After the war the public became resentful and impatient whenrationing was not relaxed on clothes. People were bitter because clothes werebeing made, but were exported in an effort to rebuild the British textile andwool economy. Paris continued to produce exotic fashions, but America wasdeveloping a look of its own which was mainly found in Claire McCardell's designs. The American look was simple and classic and continues to have followerstoday.

 

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Siren suits were the original jumpsuit and the all envelopingsometimes tartan cloth garment was a huge hit especially at night when sirenscalled citizens to the air raid shelter for cover. With its quick zippered frontindividuals could wear the suit over pyjamas making it ideal for children. Theprincesses Elizabeth and Margaret both owned siren suits as did Winston Churchilland others. The siren suit was practical and warm in draughty situations. Laterin the 1960s it was developed into evening wear in slinky Pucci prints.

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Details of therationing was announced in newspapers and women's magazines. The detailedmessage was in simple language for the masses to understand without anymisunderstanding. If only the edicts of politicians and government were sosimply stated today.


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The name of the dress is not the only thing about it to draw controversy. During its introduction, many women in the upper class were scandalously labeled because the Poblana was considered too provocative for traditional clothing at the time.

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This meant that womenwere forced to wear clothes that they had in their wardrobes before theannouncement, adding items only as if essential. The coupons were also reducedas the war progressed. Mid war they fell to 48 a year and by 1945 clothingcoupons were as low as 36 a year. The scheme continued to issue coupons until1949 with all forms of rationing ended in 1952.

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All the fripperies of fashion dressing pre-war were nowthought of as very bad taste and simplification of style became essential if awoman wanted to appear patriotic. The silhouette became refined and unadornedand consisted of a boxy square shoulder padded jacket and short straight skirt. Clothes had to be practical and restrained. They had to work in all situationsand give free movement.

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In addition to the items listed there were goods that could be bought without coupons such as small items for babies under 4 months old. Boiler suits, workmen's bib, brace and overalls, hats and caps, sewing thread, mending wool, mending silk, boot and shoe laces, tapes, braids, ribbons and other fabrics less than 3 inches in width, elastic, lace, lace net, sanitary towels, braces, suspenders, garters, hard haberdashery, clogs and black out dyed cloth were all ration free. Coupons were not needed for second hand articles.